Yesterday I got the opportunity to meet two dog lovers who are as passionate as I am about those four legged heart stealers
A few months ago I was contacted through my blog by a young man asking if I could recommend a veterinarian here in Puerto Viejo. His twelve year old black lab named Maggie was not doing well and he wanted to find a trustworthy vet. I recommended my vet and he brought Maggie down. A few weeks later Maggie passed away. Early last week, he contacted me to let me know he was now looking for a new dogfriend and asked me to let him know if I heard of a dog needing a good home. I decided to post his inquiry on a buy/sell facebook page we have here in Puerto Viejo and that same day was contacted by a wonderful woman named Iris. Three months ago she rescued a dog that she thought was about six months old who was starving on the beach. The dog was unable to stand because he was so badly starved. She quickly took her two dogs
home and ran back to the beach to get the dog. She got it to the vet and nurtured it into a most beautiful and loving animal. She may have to leave Costa Rica and felt that the best thing for him would be to find him a good home. I gave them each other’s contact information and the rest is history. The young man came to Puerto Viejo yesterday on the bus and I took the two of them back to his farm north of Cahuita. It was very hard for Iris to give the dog up but she could tell that
Clay was a dog lover through and through and so that may have made it a bit easier. At any rate, Snickers (now Stegner) will be living the life of a very pampered friend. He deserves it!!
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A Perfect Match
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Reflections on our first year in Puerto Viejo
Yep – that’s right. Today we have been in our new home in Costa Rica for one full year. I can hardly believe it! About this time last year we were on the road from San Jose after loading up our dogs, their crates (which would not fit with them in it so we had to break them down), nine duffle bags full of “stuff”, and four very tired adults. We made the turn onto Ruta 36 and each kilometer we drove by felt more and more like home. We got to the house around 11:30 and have not looked back.
When I think of our decision to do this, I really do marvel at how it all came together.
We bought the house in June of 2009 (thanks
Larissa and
Rami for building it!!) thinking that it would be five or more years before we actually retired and came to live here. But the more we worked day to day and dealt with the sometimes almost unmanageable stress – particularly of my job – we decided to figure out how to make the move happen a few years earlier than planned. And we did. It meant living on much less than we would have had if we had waited but when I wake up here every morning to the sounds of the birds and the ocean (and sometimes the howler monkeys) I know that no amount of additional money would have made it worth the wait.
In the year that we have been here we have said hello and ![]()
goodbye to new
friends;
met blog and email buddies in person;
designed and planted a beautiful new garden in a lot that was overgrown with diseased cacao trees;
added a new puppy to our household;
learned about new plants, birds, and wildlife; rescued a baby sloth and a hog-nosed viper snake (although the baby sloth died a few days later); watched a jaguarundi stalk a sloth way up in a HUGE tree (the sloth was okay);
watched horses freely wander the beach and town;
hiked to one of the most beautiful waterfalls I have ever seen and swam in the pool beneath it;
learned how to snorkel (and LOVE it!);
crossed a river to Panama in a rickety canoe to buy cheap goods;
watched iguanas in a tree overhanging our yard; discovered the most amazing therapeutic masseuse whose magic hands have enabled me to finally be out of pain after thirty five years;
sung the Messiah at the cathedral in Limon with a tiny chorus from our town;
eaten new fruits and vegetables; entertained family![]()
and friends
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who visited (keep on coming – we love having you!); and are living a completely stress-free, relaxing life.
This is not paradise – this is a third world country with all the attendant issues – poverty, theft, bad roads. But for us, it is as close to paradise as we will get and we love it here – it is our home.
Pura Vida!!!
P.S. Thanks Susan and Rex for getting us down here one year ago today!!! ![]()
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Blockades, beaches, and no boredom :-)
It has been an interesting couple of weeks here in Puerto Viejo. Two weeks ago the government decided that it was time to go forward with enforcing an order that was initiated in 1993 to demolish two hotels in our area. It had been determined many years ago that both of the hotel had been defying the environmental laws and had contaminated both the ocean and the rain forest around their areas. Due diligence allowed them to remain open for years. However, all appeals ran out early this month and the bulldozers arrived to raze the hotels – accompanied by 200 or so policemen from around the country. Before the police arrived, blockades were set up (by cutting down trees to fall across the road) so that the bulldozers could not reach their destination. It was an exciting few days here in our laid back little town and the controversy will go on for some time as to who is right or wrong. Tom and I will continue to take everything with a grain of salt on both sides………….
A friend of Tom’s from the University of Idaho came to visit last week. He is a law professor from UI who came to Heredia in the central valley to teach a course on how the laws in different countries complement (or don’t) each other. He finished his classwork last week so came over to our side of the country of a few days of R&R. It was such fun to meet him and hear of his experiences. He is not a novice visitor – he has been here many times – but this was his first visit to Puerto Viejo. He definitely was enjoying himself and we are hoping that he and his wife will decide to come back for respite in the next couple of years
Other than than that we have been tending to our amazing garden, snorkeling whenever the ocean is calm, and trying to catalog new birds that come into our yard.
Oh – and watching Sofi grow up. She is almost six months old!!!
The first bananas from our very own yard!
Our newest batch of Heliconias
Iguana hanging out in our tree
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Now THIS is a Day to Celebrate!
It was one year ago today that Tom and I retired and said goodbye to our friends and jobs at the University of Idaho. We left at noon (him hurrying me along as I just HAD to finish that last spreadsheet) and headed home to the refurbished barn we were renting to finish packing and loading up the U-Haul for our trip through Wyoming and Colorado before making our move to Costa Rica.
I remember so well how excited we were when Luke came by to pick up the last of our furniture – our bedroom set and couches – and we settled in with the dogs for our last night in Idaho. The next morning we were up at 4:00 a.m. and took off with the small U-Haul behind us and the dogs in the back of the truck. We had one scary moment when we stopped off the highway to let the dogs out and Kaya got off the leash and ran towards the highway. I got her back by squeezing one of her squeaky toys but it was a scary moment. Other than that it was clear sailing for the next thirteen hours to Casper where we spent five days with mom and my brother Tom and sister in law Shirley
and had a really wonderful visit.
Then on to Colorado where we spent a few days visiting my aunt and her partner Frank,
Jason, Shanti,
Tyvon,
and grandkids in Denver before heading over the mountain to spend a few days with Jordan and Sonya and the grandkids in Gunnison.
I remember most poignantly burying the ashes of two
of our dogs – Neo and Bentley – at the pet tree on the ranch outside of Lake City that Sonya and Jordan own. I was so glad to leave them there in that amazingly beautiful country.
The day of our flight, Sonya drove us to Denver where she dropped us off so Shanti and Tyvon could take us to meet our 12:10 a.m. flight. Our friends Rex and Susan
were already there and once we got the dogs loaded in the hands of the TSA
we went to meet them and with just a bit of a delay off we flew to our new home!
I have to say that there has not been a day that we have regretted either retiring early or moving to Costa Rica. People at work used to say that I would never be able to retire – that I would get bored. It has turned out that nothing is further from the truth. There are days when I have no idea where the time went. Between bird watching, sloth spying, and monkey maneuvering, as well as yoga and Spanish classes, there just isn’t enough time in the day. I have to work to find that hour or so to hang out in the hammock
All I can say is Pura Vida!!!
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Finally–Rain in the Caribbean!!!
It has been raining off and on for the last few days here in Puerto Viejo and it feels great! June and the first half of July were so dry that we were beginning to get worried. This is the rain forest after all, and the plants and animals need the rain for nourishment. The days are still very nice and the rain normally doesn’t start until late afternoon so we can get out and enjoy the day and then kick back and relax to the sounds of the rainfall in the evening.
One thing that we have noticed since the rain is back is that the birds and sloths are too. We had been commenting that the last couple of months we just were not seeing any wildlife at all but didn’t realize that it had to do with the lack of rain. We have spotted a couple of
new birds and are welcoming our regular visitors back. ![]()
Yesterday was a particularly abundant wildlife day. We started out listening to the clucking of the toucan perching on the trees around the house and then were surprised by the momma sloth
and baby that we had seen a couple of months ago. The baby is getting bigger and more bold! It was hanging upside down trying to grab leaves while still keeping a tight hold on mom.
We also saw another sloth chomping away on the vines that come off the cecropia tree – it was having a great time!!
We also were visited by an Iguana in a nearby tree. It was laying on it’s back sunning itself – catching a few rays
It was also keeping an eye out on the hawk that was circling around.
We think we have heard some baby hawks in the nearby trees so the hawk is out looking for food for them.
Time to get back out and check out what today brings………….
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New creatures in our yard
A few days ago the weather was so gorgeous we just had to
go to the beach
We hung out for a while at Playa Punta Uva and snorkeled and watched people come and go.
It was a wonderful afternoon.
Shortly after we got home, Tom called to me to come outside. In his hands was a tiny, tiny two toed
sloth that he had found at the base of the giant tree in our yard. It broke our hearts to see the little thing which was clearly not even a month old. We immediately called the Jaguar Rescue and they said to wrap it in a warm blanket and bring it in to them. When Tom got out there they explained that sometimes the babies lose their grip and fall to the ground – clearly that is what happened in this case. We will check up on it in a few days to see if it is doing okay.
We also saw a baby iguana hanging out on the side of our bodega yesterday. Iguana are endangered because they evidently taste good and people eat them. There are several initiatives in the country to save the
iguana which we hope will be successful as they are amazing creatures. We have a male and female living in a huge tree right over our fence and we often catch sight of them lying on the branches of the tree or when they come to the ground for food. We are thinking that this baby is the offspring of the pair in the tree.
There honestly is just not enough time in the day to experience all there is to experience in our little corner of the world. And we haven’t even left the Caribbean side of the country since we moved here!!!!! We plan to change that in the coming months and go back to visit places that originally stole our hearts in the little country as well as visit those areas we have not yet seen…………….
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“Costa Rica Dog Lover” meets “A Dull Roar”!!!
It has been a really fun and interesting few days here in Puerto Viejo for us. A couple of nights ago
we met Casey Bahr, his wife Tamara, and son Sean. Casey writes a blog called A Dull Roar which has chronicled his move to Perez Zeledon in Costa Rica and does chronicle his life since he got here. I have read his blog for a little over a year now and so was delighted when he emailed and said that they would be coming to Puerto Viejo for a quick trip. We met for dinner at The Flip Flop Restaurant in downtown PV and had just a great time! They are all so interesting and engaged in their lives. Sean, who is twelve, goes to school in the town they live in and seems to have assimilated very well. And – he is a very tolerant twelve year old – very patient with the older crew as we talked on and on
He wasn’t sure that he liked the sour taste of the starfruit though…………
Tamara is an artist who does beautiful mosaic tile work – you can find examples of her work on Casey’s blog. And Casey is just as entertaining in real life as he is on his blog. All in all it was a great night. We will definitely plan on going to their part of the world for a visit in a few months.
Last night we went to the newly remodeled Bar Penn – soon to be renamed “The Point”.
An expat from the U.S. – actually Colorado to be exact – has
taken over running a long lived establishment just down the road from us and has turned it into a sports bar/restaurant. It looks great, the beer is cheap, and the people we have met there are fun. Last night there was a band that had our neighbor Carter playing drums with them. The singer had a terrific voice and played a variety of songs. His name is Joaquin Teran and he and his bass player evidently play all over the world. We really enjoyed ourselves immensely. I also was able to meet some of our other neighbors so that made it doubly enjoyable.
Earlier in the week we had a couple over for dinner who have just moved into the neighborhood named Rick and Kathleen.
They are from South Carolina and are as crazy about their dog Tassle as we are about our dogs. We had a fun night getting to know each other and talking about our wonderful four legged friends. Tom once again made a wonderful dinner – Beer Can Chicken and salad and we were all stuffed.
Tassle and Kaya fell in love so we expect to be seeing a lot more of him
The weather here has been absolutely stunning the last few weeks. We actually need some rain and hope to get some in the next few days. In the meantime though, I am just going to enjoy this time,
kick back, and RELAX (just like these dogs)!!!
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Happy birthday Kaya and Wiley!!!! (Oh–and the United States :-) )
Today Kaya is four and Wiley is eight. We got Wiley in March of 2004 when he was eight months old and Kaya in May of 2008 when she was ten months old. We decided to give them July 4th birthdays so we would never forget to celebrate and so far it has worked. They both were rescue dogs – Wiley
from Fort Collins, Colorado and
Kaya from Spokane, Washington – and now they are living the good life here in Puerto Viejo Costa Rica. Twice a day they head down to the beach with dad for long walks and exploring. The rest of the day they relax and play in the garden – which explains why we really have no producing plants
We got them their present a couple of months early when we discovered SOFI!!! She was dumped in a ditch to die but we heard her and brought her into the household. So now we are owned by three of these wonderful creatures. I’m not sure Kaya is so thrilled since Sofi will not let her out of her sight.
But at least she has someone to play with now since Wiley is a bit too old now to run around as much as Kaya wants to.
Also – Kaya has a boyfriend named Tassle!! We had some new neighbors over for dinner last night and they brought their
beautiful German Shepherd. He and Kaya had a great time and even Wiley didn’t eat him. Only Sofi tried to cause commotion by thinking she was a tough (and much bigger) dog. However, it all worked out and they had a great time.
So I’m thinking this first birthday for them in Costa Rica is one for which they (and we) are most grateful.
Happy 4th of July!!!
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Visit to the Dentist, Crocodiles in Playa Negra, and other adventures
Yesterday, I went to a dentist in Limon to get a crown put on an implant I had done in the United States. The original crown had come off after only six months and I lost it. This all happened in late December around the time that mom fell and broke her hip so it took me some time to get it fixed. I originally had planned to go to San Jose as most everyone here does, but after asking around I heard of a young female dentist who spoke excellent English and who is in Limon. Since Limon is an hour away as opposed to four hours, I decided to give her a try. I went to her on June 6th after I returned from Wyoming and got the crown fitted and returned on Tuesday to get it put on. She did a wonderful job – it actually fits much better than the original one – and it was much less expensive.
The office was very small compared to the ones I have been in in the U.S. but definitely outfitted with the newest technology. There were only two rooms –the reception area and the work area.
While I would have paid $250 if I had gone to San Jose, the $400 I paid was not bad considering I did not have travel and have hotel expenses in San Jose. All in all, it was a good experience. I do have to have a bridge put in also but will go to San Jose for that. The price I can get in San Jose is $400 while the Limon dentist quoted me $1000 so it is worth it to make the longer trip.
We also have had so excitement here on Playa Negra the last few days – we have our very own crocodile!!! It showed up about a week ago and has been hanging out in the ocean catching fish and has been seen on the beach. While not dangerous to humans, it will eat small animals so we are making sure Sofi is at our side whenever we go to the beach. Wiley and Kaya are on a leash so we can control them, but we Sofi has been so good she is off leash while on the beach. There is discussion about the agency responsible coming to move the croc to another area but so far we have not heard if that is a go or not. In the meantime, we will keeo on the lookout.
We also have
baby white collared manakins in a bush in our yard. The nest is very near the ground so we have been able to document their life to date – from eggs to hatching to hopefully fledging in a couple of weeks. It is absolutely amazing how quickly they grow!!! In the first picture they were just hatched – about a week ago. The second picture was taken today and they have their eyes open and you can see they have wings.
It is SUCH fun to live here ![]()
Pictures on the road to Limon:
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Goodbyes
Well, our week with Shanti and Shaylyn is ending. They will be heading back to San Jose this afternoon on the Interbus to catch their early morning flight to Denver tomorrow. We had such a good time! Lots of beach time so that Shanti could go back with a tan and lots of card games and just chatting.
Last night Shaylyn and I dyed one of my white t-shirts with some seeds from the achiote bush we have growing in our yard. We heated up the seeds in oil and then put in some water and boiled it all up. We then added the shirt to see what would happen. I think it looks great! ![]()
The first day they were here, we went to the beach at Punta Uva and tried to snorkel.
The sea was too rough so we just hung out and played in the waves but it was great fun. The next day we went shopping so Shanti could pick up some souvenirs to take back and we bought Shay her birthday presents (June 13th was her big day). We stopped at Ammimodo Restaurant
to have their great pizza and sat outside and watched the ocean. In the afternoon we went to our beach – Playa Negra – and had fun playing with the beach dogs and jumping in the waves. On Wednesday we hiked a LONG trail at Cahuita beach
and saw an eyelash viper and a Jesus lizard,
and other assorted small animals – no monkeys or sloths though. Later that day we had lunch and then cam
e home and crashed – we were all VERY tired!
Yesterday, we went to Manzanilla for lunch at Maxi’s and it finally rained, which was nice. Shaylyn and I actually got cold which amused Tom and Shanti no end
We did a bit more shopping in Puerto Viejo so that Shanti could get a hammock for her new house she will moving to in Pine and then we came back and hung out while Shay watched a movie.
Also this week we have been watching the growth of two baby white collared manakins in their nest.
It has been wonderful to watch how much they grow each day. They should fledge in about two weeks and I can’t wait to get pictures of that!
So – all in all it was a wonderful week and we will miss them when they leave. But what great memories we will have!!
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